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ShinSanwaSwitch - blog of creating DIY-analog of OBSA-LHSXF-LN

Discussion in 'Tutorial Area - By users for users!' started by steelpuxnastik, Aug 17, 2020.

  1. steelpuxnastik

    steelpuxnastik ShinSanwaSwitch is near completement

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    #1 steelpuxnastik, Aug 17, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2020
    Hello friends.

    I hope the moderators will forgive me, I just do not know where this can be published, but a little later, I hope here will be a real tutorial.

    I got the idea to build a new controller, but only to make it better, more convenient and more reliable, especially in maintenance, than the one that I have now, because now I have optical switches, but they are canopy, on snot, working good, but they needed veeeery long time of calibration and that time when I needed to disassemble buttons - I cannot assemble them again for a long time, because I lost order, to which button which switch (sorry for the pun). So I understand that I need to think, to do something with it. I really want to use the original Sanwa OBSA-LHSXF-LN, the only problem is their rather high price, especially for me. In this all, perhaps, it will also be your personal interest, since if I succeed, then you can also use all these developments in order to install it in your controller.

    What exactly do I want to do?

    I want to completely repeat (clone) the OBSA-LHSXF-LN by 3D printing the outer casing and the inner PCB of the device, since I am sure that the board inside is elementary and there will definitely not be much difficulty in repeating it, the outer casing will be more difficult.


    But I have a few fundamental questions that accumulated about this case:

    1. Some time ago I wanted to buy one OBSA-LHSXF-LN on Rakuten, but did not have time and the store closed. Where I can buy it now? Who knows other places?
    2. Does OBSA-LHSXF-LN fit into an ordinary Chinese button? (like this on photos bellow) In theory, it can be installed and work, but again, may be anyone have experience? I need more accurate information on this issue until I have my own OBSA-LHSXF-LN. (Sorry, I do not know why, site do not want to upload my photoes, so here it is on my google photoes here and here.)
    3. If anyone already has OBSA-LHSXF-LN and you could very much help me if you disassemble it and show me what it has inside, in order to approximately understand its contents and components. Can someone help with this? More detailed view of external case parts.
    4. It feels like there was another question, but I forgot which one .. :)))) But if I remember, I will add here.
    If, nevertheless, the above questions will be solved, if I get my hands on one OBSA-LHSXF-LN and if I can repeat it - materials for 3D-printing and gerber-files of the PCB that is inside, for the production of the PCB in some Chinese factory (or maybe even for self-production at home, everything will depend on the complexity of the board, but I do not think it wil be difficult) will be published by me here and you can use them. Source-files will of course also be available. It seems to me that this is a completely feasible task.

    What do you think?
     
  2. phailyoor

    phailyoor Welcome to DIVA!

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    See photos:
     
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  3. steelpuxnastik

    steelpuxnastik ShinSanwaSwitch is near completement

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    #3 steelpuxnastik, Aug 18, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2020
    Thank you very much! One question is closed, somehow.
    Can I ask you to show more detailed the outer case components?
    Daaaaamn, it's a way more complex, than I thought.. So in real, i thought before, it's somehow uses only lever arm of button itself for crossing the optocoupler, but in fact, arm of button only acts on another lever arm inside button that crossing the optocoupler, am I right?
    But still I do not understand, can it be used with ordinary chinese button, as I have? Need to see it assembled both.
    Pleasant, it can be made as single layer PCB, so it can be made at home, if you have enough skills. But again, it needs to find components, especially this variant of optocouper, but I think, it's doable task.
    And now I am even more convinced that I need to get my hands on it - needs to find place where to buy it!
     
  4. Doctopus

    Doctopus I bought MEGA69 and I regret

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    LHSXF is not compatible with a lot of chinese buttons due to the difference between the lamp holder connector designs. I would suggest to just make one that follows regular microswitch footprint and rig it on a chinese lamp holder. Also get an SLA printer or anyone that can print those for you with an SLA printer. You'll need the extra precision.

    (TBH I don't even see a reason to copy it one-to-one since the mechanics are pretty simple anyway. It might require extensive tuning for the actuation profile though.)
     
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  5. steelpuxnastik

    steelpuxnastik ShinSanwaSwitch is near completement

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    #5 steelpuxnastik, Aug 19, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2020
    You are quite right, yesterday I came to a similar conclusion about it (and because of problems which you voiced above) and I realized that no need in one-in-one copying of it, because we can use only a conception of it (we see how it works) and design everything to fit regular chinese button (the main thing is how it mounts here and how mounts LED inside it, similar to ordinary switch fix, like on photo)
    [​IMG]
    also with using only common components (because I see that I cannot find anywhere any somehow similar in size optocoupler to original LHSXF, so result product will be larger then LHSXF, because of optocoupler, but in any case it's an opportunity to choose better or best optocoupler). The most difficult moment for me is to understand how to made similar leverage system, that will affect the optocoupler and is it worth to be repeated at all? But in any case, this formulation of problem is greatly simplifies the matter, that it becomes clear where to think.
     
  6. steelpuxnastik

    steelpuxnastik ShinSanwaSwitch is near completement

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    #6 steelpuxnastik, Sep 12, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2020
    I have some progress in this business and little success. I found some 3D-models for SolidWorks of arcade buttons, after little editing I printed on 3D-printer switch holder to understand, does it fits the button. And it fits! But may be needs some very little editing more to fit easier.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    But that means that only think I need to do next is to make PCB of switch and make design of it's internal lever mechanism, it will be pretty easy, much easier then in OBSA-LHSXF-LN. Button will push lever like in normal switch (red on the photo above) and it will cross the optocoupler. About optocoupler: I found ultrasmall, and may be the same optocoupler used in OBSA-LHSXF-LN, so it ideally will fit, I hope.
    [​IMG]
    In very short term I hope I'll make PCB of it and will know dimensions of PCB and in accordance with that will make outer and inner design of switch. I hope it will be success :))) The only difficulty now is that I do not really know how to work in SolidWorks and I need some time to learn this system.
    [​IMG]
     
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  7. steelpuxnastik

    steelpuxnastik ShinSanwaSwitch is near completement

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    #7 steelpuxnastik, Sep 20, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
    Finally I made 3D-model of RPI-221 optocoupler and received some experience in SolidWorks, that was pretty solid work :)) Two days for 10 minutes work :D
    [​IMG]

    And after that completed PCB model for understanding dimensions of PCB for making outer and inner case design.
    Connectors looks gigantic, but in my case there will be connectors without those "ears", and as I can see there will be enough space to connect LED, so I think it will be good.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I think for LED will be used this kind of socket, it will be glued inside the hole for LED and it will be needed only to cut legs of LED to shorter length and put inside.
    [​IMG]
    I hope next part will be very soon, because I'm very interested :))
     
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  8. steelpuxnastik

    steelpuxnastik ShinSanwaSwitch is near completement

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    [​IMG]
    Some huge update!
    With the great help of @Doctopus were made several fundamental changes in principle schematic that theoretically will make my "shinsanwaswitch" (it's the name of this thing :))) just like original switch. @Doctopus helped to analyze elements of original switch, told me what would fit in it and in result I've got this
    [​IMG]
    The main fundamental change here is usage of n-channel mosfet that unlike scheme before (it's the same scheme that I use now in my controller) it works like standard mechanical switch: when button not pressed - at the output of switch has Hi-Z (not connected), but when pressed - minus, but before it was minus when not pressed and Hi-Z when pressed and it needs to invert signal programmatically. That means more easy implementation.
    I hope it will work just like I described :)))
    And PCB that turned out in result.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This board was exported to solidworks and finally I managed to do case and mechanism of switch that will be compatible with chinese button.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    At this variant it will use M2 screws with countersunk head, 2mm outer diameter spring with 10mm length (I hope 0,2mm wire diameter will cause no inconvenience, because I have hope it will be very light in terms of pressing force and with 200g sanwa spring it will be the same as original configuration).
    [​IMG]
    The LED will be mounted, as I mentioned in previous message inside BLS-socket connector, that will be glued inside the hole, the length of LED's connectors must be cut to make shorter.

    I think in near days I'll print this elements to see, if I made mistakes and will correct it and if everything right in PCB - will make order of PCBs and after that I'll upload everything that you can make the same
     

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